Getting the blues in the Alamo City

Posted on June 18, 2019 by bvanrysdam

There are tons of great things to do when visiting San Antonio. Eating, drinking, strolling along the river walk and exploring its deep history of world famous missions would make any trip to the Alamo City worthwhile.

There is however, something off the beaten track that is also worth checking out, especially if you are a fan of the blues. Put on display in the lobby of the Sheraton Gunther hotel is an old 78 and a photo of legendary blues man Robert Johnson.

Johnson was discovered playing in Mississippi by Ernie Ortle who persuaded him to come to San Antonio and record for the American Recording Company’s Vocalion label. On Nov. 23, 1936, Johnson set up in Room 414 and history was made.

In all, Johnson recorded 16 tracks during three sessions at the Gunther including: “I Believe I’ll Dust My Broom,” “Sweet Home Chicago,” “Terraplane Blues,” and the legendary “Cross Road Blues” (famously covered by Eric Clapton, along with Cream, Lynyrd Skynyard, Robin Trower, John Mayer and many others).

Eric Clapton called him “the most important blues musician who ever lived”. Johnson was one of the first inductees to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame and was later honored with a Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award.

Much of Johnson’s life is shrouded in mystery. There are only two verified photos of him and his three grave sites in Mississippi only add to the intrigue. Another part of Johnson’s folklore was his alleged deal with the devil in exchange for musical prowess. Johnson, as the story goes, was an ordinary guitarist who became a master after meeting with the devil (perhaps at the crossroads?).

Like other great artists, Johnson died at age 27 becoming an early member of the “27 Club” which now include the likes of Brian Jones, Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Kurt Cobain and Amy Winehouse. Johnson’s death has been attributed to a stabbing, a gunshot or poisoning. The truth is nobody really knows how he died.

In 2009, John Mellencamp came to the Gunter to record the track “Right Behind Me” for his album No Better Than This, in the same room where Johnson had recorded in 1936.

Fame can be a fickle thing. Much like artists like Van Gogh, their greatness was not appreciated till long after they left us. But, even though Johnson’s music wasn’t heard much during his lifetime and few facts are known about his life, he is still widely regarded as the greatest blues man of all time.

Let your fingers do the walking

Posted on July 19, 2018 by bvanrysdam

Traveling to New York state generally leads a person to two destinations, the Big Apple with its museums, theatres and night life, or the other side of the state which offers a world famous Niagara Falls and revitalized Buffalo waterfront, but there is a third option that is worth checking out.

Nestled in the middle of the state is a region called the Finger Lakes. The Finger Lakes consist of 11 parallel lakes looking like the fingers of a pair of outstretched hands. Formed during the ice age, two of the lakes (Seneca and Cayuga) are among the deepest in North America and have bottoms below sea level.

There a lot’s of things to do and see. Everything from world-class museums, spectacular parks, wine tours and even auto racing.

No visit would be complete without seeing the Corning Museum of Glass. The museum was a gift from the Corning Glass Works to the nation to celebrate the company’s 100^th anniversary. There you’ll find an extensive collection of more than 45,000 pieces of classic and contemporary glass from all over the world. There’s demonstrations of live glass blowing, interactive stations for young and old alike and even a chance to create your own piece art using different glass making techniques.

Just up the road you’ll find the tiny hamlet of Watkins Glenn. Known for its Grand Prix racing, Watkins Glenn International is the birthplace of American Road Racing. The track hosts the NASCAR Sprint Cup Series, Sahlen’s Six Hours of The Glen, and the U.S. Vintage Grand Prix. For those really wanting the full experience, take advantage of Drive The Glenn. You’ll get a real sense of what it’s like to drive the 3.4 mile circuit.

If racing isn’t your thing (or even if it is), no visit to Watkins Glenn would be complete without stopping by the Watkins Glenn State Park. Visitors can stroll up a meandering gorge path that climbs 400 feet and passes by 19 waterfalls along the way. You might feel like you are in a Lord of the Rings movie as the trails winds over and under waterfalls with breath taking views at every corner. There is no price for admission and parking is nominal, which makes this stop a real value. The visit can be done in a couple of hours, and the park offers camping for those interested in exploring more of what the park has to offer.

All of this walking and exploring might make you thirsty which is why we’ve saved the best for last, the wine tours. The Finger Lakes are home to three unique wine trails, each offering their own different experiences. Founded in 1986, the Seneca Lake Wine Trail is one of the largest in the eastern U.S. and features 30 wineries all waiting to be explored. Seneca Lake’s natural combination of deep water (at 632 feet it is the deepest of the Finger Lakes) and sloping hillsides provides the ideal micro-climate for grape growing.

There is really no wrong way to start. If you need a couple of suggestions, Atwater Estate Vineyards, Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards and Wagner Vineyards all offer excellent varieties of local wines including Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. Most vineyards make available flights of wine for $5. Pick 5 different labels off the menu for a quick taste of the best wines this region has to offer.

There is also a café next to the Wagner Vineyards called the Ginny Lee that offers a variety of comfort foods including a local Cheese Board that features a mix of locally sourced cheeses & assorted crackers. You can also add Charcuterie & dried meats that will be sure pair well with a bottle from next door all while enjoying the panoramic views overlooking Lake Seneca from the deck.

Living in Houston, you might be worried about how to get to the area, but driving to Corning from the Buffalo airport takes a little over two hours which is almost the time it takes to get from The Woodlands to Galveston. Once you arrive, you’ll find plenty of hotels, bed & breakfasts, vacation rentals and camp grounds to help you spend some quality time in a region of the world that still knows how to have a good time.

Jazz and heritage merge into one gigantic party

Posted on May 2, 2017 by bvanrysdam

Ray Abshire Cajun Band performing on the Fais Do-Do Stage

Like to hear great live music, munch on tasty treats and enjoy some epic people watching? Then you need to get to the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival.

I have heard about this festival for years, but can honestly say I had no idea how enormous this event was. This year’s festival featured Stevie Wonder, Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers, Maroon 5, Dave Matthews and Tim Reynolds, Harry Connick Jr., Snoop Dog and many, many more (click here to see the complete list).

Lost Bayou Ramblers performing on the Gentilly Stage

So how does Jazz Fest pack so many acts together? Believe it or not, they have 3 very large stages (Acura Stage, Gentilly Stage and Congo Square Stage) that have bands perform at the same time. The day I attended, I had to choose between Maroon 5, Alabama Shakes and Usher. Oh yeah, there are also 8 other acts on smaller stages including the Jazz Tent, the Gospel Tent and the marvelous Blues Tent where you can hear a wide variety of interpretations on this truly Americana genre of music.

Actual photo of Adam Levine’s brain hurting

The area is so crammed with music that Adam Levin (Maroon 5 frontman) quipped “we’ll have to reconfigure our set so we’re not doing the acoustic part while the Blues Tent is shredding” (Jonny Lang was performing). “It’s literally making my brain hurt,” said Levine.

You would think Jazz Fest is all about the music, but there is lots more to take in, mainly the food. The food list is as impressive as the music line-up and features your typical Creole/Cajun servings of jambalaya, po-boys, muffuletta sandwiches, boiled crawfish, shrimp and grits, red beans and rice, boudin balls, plus many other tasty treats.

Yummy Crawfish Bread!

You can’t go wrong with any of it, but locals head straight for the Crawfish Bread stand. This decadent collection of warm bread with melted cheese and crawfish will have you asking ‘where have you been all of my life’. My suggestion is to get there early and eat one as soon as you can, then head over later in the day to chow down on some Crawfish Monica which consists of a bowl of totini pasta with bits of crawfish and enough cream and butter to clog even the most healthy of arteries.

Looking for something sweet? You’ll find plenty of Sno-Ball stands, praline stuffed beignets and the infamous Roman Chewing Candy Company. Another pleasant surprise is what the festival charges for the food and drink. Water was $3 a bottle, the Crawfish Bread was $7 and beers (you knew they had to have alcohol there right?) started around $8.

After spending nine hours of listening to awesome live music, pounding down great food and hanging around with festival attendees that are as varied as the music and food, all I can say is “Laissez le bon Temps Rouler”!

Can you spot us?

Any volunteers?

Posted on April 24, 2017 by bvanrysdam

Boy it’s tough to fly these days. From airlines squeezing passengers into smaller and smaller seats, charging for checked bags and overbooking flights, it’s no wonder the friendly skies are becoming more and more tense.

By now, I’m sure you along with the entire world has seen the video of a United Airlines passenger being forcibly removed from a flight from Chicago to Louisville. The video, which includes audio of the man screaming while being lugged down the aisle, is difficult to watch, but does not tell the whole story.

United was trying to make room for a flight crew to get to Louisville. An announcement was made that they needed four passengers to give up their seats which were already taken. When no one volunteered, three passengers were asked to get off with little fan-fare (although I’m sure they were not happy) and no video to post on social media. David Dao, the fourth passenger, refused to give up his seat, resulting in Chicago airport police dragging him down the aisle.

The problem? The airline was actually in their rights to ask the passenger to get off the plane. In the fine print (that nobody ever bothers read) it basically gives the airline the right to remove anyone for any reason. Each airline has their own policy on how a person is to be reimbursed, but make no mistake, United Airlines was in their rights to do what they did.

Now you can argue that isn’t fair and that United Airlines totally mishandled the entire incident (and you would be correct), but what about the actions taking by Mr. Dao? A law officer made a request which he chose to ignore. Does that mean other passengers in the future can disregard a request/command from a law officer? I’m not sure I’m comfortable going down that pathway either.

United Airlines was in the wrong, but so was Mr. Dao. Two wrongs don’t make a right, but maybe, just maybe it will generate a discussion on passenger rights for future travelers.

The city of palaces shines

Posted on March 29, 2017 by bvanrysdam

Interested in exploring a city with a rich history, world-class museums, a vibrant culture and is less than two hours away? Than say “hola Mexico City’!

Mexico City is a colorful tapestry of art, food, modern architecture, abject poverty, clogged roadways and citizens with a passion for life. Visiting an unfamiliar city can be a little intimidating, but you might want to begin in the Centro Histórico district, which encompasses the historic downtown. There you can wander the Zócalo, the largest plaza in Latin American.

Metropolitan Cathedral

Looming over the Zócalo like a majestic patriarch is the grand Metropolitan Cathedral, the largest in the America’s. One cannot help but be reminded of the magnificent cathedrals in Europe when walking through its large doors. The Metropolitan Cathedral, which took 240 years to complete, features four facades that are flanked by enormous columns and religious artwork. The two giant bell towers contain 25 bells.

Also worth checking out nearby is the National Palace and the ruins of the Templo Mayor featuring a museum that houses artifacts recovered from the site. You’ll also discover roof top restaurants offering panoramic views of the city center to rest and refresh yourself before moving on to your next stop.

Palacio de las Bellas Artes

Taking a leisurely stroll down the Francisco l. Madero Avenue brings you to the Palacio de las Bellas Artes, a spectacular building and home to a collection of statues, paintings and murals from some of Mexico’s finest artists including Freda Kahlo, Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros. The Palacio de las Bellas Artes is also home to the National Theatre, whose old world charm provide a perfect setting to see a performance by the Folklórico de México Compania Nacional.

Pyramid of the Sun

No trip to Mexico City would be complete without a visit to Teotihuacán, the ancient Mesoamerican city that was established around 100 B.C. There you will find the massive Pyramid of the Sun and slightly smaller Pyramid of the Moon. Found along the Avenue of the Dead, the Pyramid of the Sun is one of the largest structures of its kind in the Western Hemisphere and third largest in the world. Not much is known about the ancient city that covers 8 square miles and included temples and housing for nearly 200,000 citizens. The Aztecs who discovered it 600 years after the city was destroyed named it “the place where the gods were created”.

Climbing the 248 steps to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun can be challenging. Mexico City sits almost a mile and half above sea level, so the air is much thinner. Still the 360-degree views are spectacular and well worth a few moments of strained breathing and catching your breath.

There are several transportation options to visiting Teotihuacán. You can take public transportation, hire a cab or private car, or book one the many excursions offered by various tour companies. Consider getting there early in the day. It is less crowded, the temperature is cooler and you can observe the hot air balloons tours gentling floating overhead, offering tourists a unique view of this UNESCO site.

La Casa Azul

Mexico City may not have a Louvre or Rijksmuseum, but it does have a little blue house where tourists line-up around the block to enter. La Casa Azul was the home to Freda Kahlo, one of Mexico’s greatest artists. The Blue House rests in the quaint Coyoacán district and offers visitors the chance to walk about where she and husband Diego Rivera worked and lived. Be sure to purchase your tickets online before you go to avoid the inevitable long lines.

You won’t find a lot of her work there, but you do get insight into her life while strolling through the rooms and gardens that inspired her life. Kahlo suffered from several injuries that are evidenced by a collection of back braces, plastic corsets and a prosthetic leg. There are also dresses Kahlo designed which, instead of hiding her need for braces, highlighted them in a very forward fashion sense.

When you’re done visiting the La Casa Azul, it is worth taking a walk down the Ignacio Allende to the Mercado de Coyoacán. It is your typical Mexican market, crammed from floor to ceiling with goods ranging from souvenirs, housewares, a pet store and a florist shop. There is also a large food court offering many varieties of dishes, fruit drinks and candies. The aisles are tightly packed and making your way through the maze of vendors can be challenging, but there are bargains to be found with a little bit of haggling.

Continuing down Ignacio Allende, be sure to stop by the Café El Jarocho for a special cup of coffee. Opened in 1953, the traditional Mexican café offers various coffee drinks from the Jarocho bean that is grown in the northern mountains of Veracruz. The coffee features a nutty taste loved by locals and tourists alike, but you may need to be patient as lines can reach up to 30 minutes in wait time.

Just a few more blocks takes you to Plaza Hidalgo and Jardín Centenairo, two charming central plazas that sit side by side and allow you to sit and enjoy the tranquil fountains, lush gardens, the impressive Parroquia San Juan Bautista. There are also many restaurants offering local fair overlooking the plazas.

Queso fundido con chapulines y mezal

Food in Mexico City is rich in tradition. There are tortillas, tacos, tostada, quesadillas, enchiladas and antojitos that are comprised of small dishes served as appetizers or snacks. There’s also central Mexican cuisine made with spices blended from the Aztec, Spanish, African and European cultures. Don’t have time to sit and eat? No problem. Food vendors seem to be on every street corner and locals swear by them.

For something outside the box, consider enjoying a quick lunch at the El Catamarán just off the Centenario Garden. The queso fundido con chapulines (grasshoppers) y mezal, served with warm corn and flour tortillas with a cold cerveza and view of the Fuente de Los Coyotes is a wonderful way to experience México auténtico.

Every great city features a magnificent park and Mexico City is no exception. The Bosque de Chapultepec offers vast green space, miles of paved walked ways leading through woods, charming gardens and lakes. The remarkable hilltop Castillo de Chapultepec, which houses the Museo Nactional de Historio, offers stunning views of the city and worth the climb even if you don’t take time to enter the museum.

The Bosque de Chapultepec is also home to the internationally celebrated Museo Nacional de Antropologia. This massive museum offers a stunning collection original artifacts and walks visitors through a very organized and complete history of the country from prehistoric Mexico to today. Be sure to arrive early and plan on spending much of the day if you wish to visit all the halls in this museum has to offer.

While there, you can make a quick visit to the Mueso de Arte Mederno that houses collections from Frida Kahlo, José Luis Cuevas, Manuel Felguérez and of course, Diego Rivera. There are also temporary exhibitions on display.

Sunday is a special day of the week in Mexico City. One resident explained ‘Monday through Friday is for business, but Sunday is for pleasure’ and its people take full advantage of it. Museums like Palacio de las Bellas Artes and the Museo Nacional de Antropologia offer free admission to its citizens. The massive Paseo de La Reforma (Mexico City’s version of the Champs-Élysées) is literally shut down and taken over by thousands of bicyclists. Couples of all ages can be found dancing to music ranging from crooners belting out soulful ballads to Chuck Berry cd’s all dressed in their finest Sunday clothes in the many small city squares that dot the city.

There is so much to see and do in the city of palaces that it can be impossible to get it all done in a single trip, but being just a two hour flight away means multiple trips to Ciudad de México just might be in order.

Flying the friendly skies

Posted on April 15, 2015 by bvanrysdam

For the last several years, airline passengers have been asking themselves, “am I getting larger, or is my seat getting smaller.” It’s been no secret that the airlines have been shrinking the size of personal space on airplanes. After years of losing lots of money and flirting with bankruptcies, the airline companies have turned the corner and have become profitable again, thanks in large part to adding the number of seats on plane along with those little add-on fees like charging for baggage, or extra leg room.

In a wait, say that again moment, Southwest Airlines has announced they will begin to use larger seats in their 737-800s passenger jets beginning in mid-2016 and in the new 737 MAX in 2017. The seats are 0.7 inches wider than those currently used and offers more leg room. They also weigh less resulting in having to use less fuel.

While passengers may be grateful Southwest is expanding their space instead of shrinking it, their motivation may be more than just customer satisfaction. A consumer advisory group set up by the Department of Transportation is worried that shrinking space might be dangerous for passenger’s health and safety.

There is serious concern about the increased danger passengers won’t be able to evacuate fast enough in an emergency situation. One official on the committee ironically noted that the government sets standards for the condition of dogs who fly as cargo, but doesn’t have minimum space standards for us humans.

Another worry is passengers suffering from deep vein thrombosis during long flights which could lead to a blood clot forming. It was noted during a recent hearing that passengers who sit by the window have twice the risk of getting deep vein thrombosis than those sitting in the aisle seats.

So what happens if airlines are forced to add more space for their passengers? The likely scenario is passengers paying more in fares to cover the loss.

Charming Lisbon

Posted on March 23, 2015 by bvanrysdam

You’ll find magnificent views in many areas of Lisbon.

Sitting on Europe’s western shore, the city of Lisbon blends panoramic views, a storied history and wonderful food with an unpretentious charm that welcomes even the most cantankerous traveler. You won’t find a Big Ben or Eiffel Tower, but you will discover a city that finds itself quite content with who they are.

It can be a little daunting to figure out where to start, but a good jumping off point would be jumping on the Number 28 Tram. The tram transports one back in time, traveling into a bygone era. You might expect to find the classic Remodelado trams in a museum, but instead it’s used to travel through many of Lisbon’s finest districts including Baixa, Graca, Alfama and Estrela.

Tram 28 adds to the charm of Lisbon while carrying passengers through its winding streets.

Tickets can be purchased on board the tram, but smart travelers purchase a 24 hour metro pass which can be used on all the tram lines, the metro, buses, funiculars and a very funky street elevator. Tram 28 can get crowded during peak travel times, so it’s best to board near the beginning of the line.

Many visitors also use Tram 28 to climb the steep hill into the Alfama district, visit the Castelo de São Jorge and then take a leisurely stroll back down into the city center which allows one to duck into the shops and cafes which litter the area. One stop worth making on the way down is Gelato Therapy where one can enjoy a tasty treat of inventive flavors that are sure to revitalize and delight.

Azulegos tiles decorate everything from the walls of churches and monasteries to ordinary homes.

Another treat of walking back into the city center is that it allows you to enjoy the numerous beautiful tiles (called azulegos) which decorate everything from the walls of churches and monasteries to ordinary homes. The tiles can feature geometrical shapes on building facades or portray scenes from the history of the country.

Once back down into the city center, make your way over to the Elevador de Santa Justa, a neo-Gothic elevator which may just be, the most unusual means of public transportation anywhere in the world. The elevator was designed by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, an apprentice of Gustave Eiffel and was built to help connect the Baixa with the Largo do Carmo neighborhood. You can use your metro pass on the lift and once at the top, be sure to plunk down the small fee to snake your way up a narrow staircase and experience a breathtaking 360 degree view of the city.

The Elevador de Santa Justa may just be the most unusual means of public transportation anywhere in the world.

Portugal is a country steeped with a deep history and it is well worth checking out. A quick tram ride to Belém will lead you to the Tower of Belém, the Monument to the Discoveries and the spectacular Jerónimos Monastery which is a classic example of the Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style of architecture. And, no trip to Belém would be complete without a quick stop at the famous pastry shop Fábrica de Pasteis de Belém, known for a special Portuguese confectionery treat called pastel de Belém, an egg tart made with flaky pastry.

The delightfully quirky Pena National Palace provides a glimpse into how the monarchs of Portugal lived during the 18th-19th century.

Any trip to Lisbon has to include a day trip to Sintra. Here you can visit many intriguing architectural wonders including the wonderfully whimsical Pena National Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site which served as a summer residence of the monarchs of Portugal during the 18th-19th century. There is also a Castle of the Moors nestled into the top of the mountain, the Sintra national Palace which faces the central square of São Martinho and the Quinta da Regaleira palace where you can find the Initiation Wells that resemble underground towers lined with stairs.

Like most European cities, there is no shortage of good places to eat in Lisbon. You can find a wide variety of dishes, but its fish that is the main staple of Portuguese cuisine. You’ll find cod served in a variety of styles at many restaurants including shredded and sautéed in a pan with of onions and straw fried potatoes, or oven-cooked salted cod fillet with hot olive oil and baked potatoes.

Mercado Da Ribeira offers the freshest fish and vegetables of the day and is a great place to go if you’re looking for a quick bite to eat.

Mercado Da Ribeira, Lisbon’s main food market filled with stalls offering the freshest fish and vegetables of the day is a great place to go if you’re looking for a quick bite to eat. Here you’ll find everything from seafood to steak sandwiches, burgers and of course, Vinho Verde, a light and fresh Portuguese wine that goes well with just about everything.

If you’re looking to step out of the ordinary for a different kind of culinary experience, check out Minibar, a restaurant from award winning Chief Jose Avillez, where diners are offered an incredible gastronomic experience that merge flavors in with a whimsical attitude at very reasonable prices.

The 25 de Abril Bridge with the Christo Reo statue at sunset.

Visiting Lisbon with its hilly terrains, spectacular vistas, trams that whisk people around in Old World charm and the 25 de Abril Bridge that is a dead ringer for the Golden Gate Bridge, you might think it’s a lot like San Francisco, but don’t be fooled, Lisbon’s charm puts it in a class all its own.